P&O resorts, cradle mountain lodge, silky oaks lodge, heron island resort

Notes from Downunder: P&O Resorts in Australia
Natural Wanders…
exploring the natural world through writing

Notes from Downunder: Nurturing for the Nature Lover
story by Linda Lee Rathbun
photos by Steven David Miller

Australia was my home for eighteen years, and I never tired of exploring its vast boundaries. As a younger woman I was happy to camp in a tent and experience nature first hand: kangaroos grazing at my door, wild parrots landing on my roof, sudden rain storms soaking everything I owned. As youth slipped by I was seduced by comfort, and I now prefer my nature served up with some nurturing.
There are several destinations "Down Under" that specialize in nurturing the nature lover, and three of these are owned by a company called P&O Resorts. One is on the island of Tasmania, home to Australia's most rugged scenery and a wilderness region so pristine it is listed as a World Heritage Site. Here lies the Cradle Mountain-Lake St.Clair National Park, its two namesakes separated by a five hour drive or a five day overland hike.
The park's crowning glory is Cradle Mountain. Cradle Mountain Lodge, a civilized retreat from civilization, is at the park's entrance. Surrounding the main lodge is a village of log cabins with smoke escaping from the wood-burning stoves that warm these unique guest rooms, and wispy clouds settling amongst the trees and roof-tops. The ground surrounding the settlement is wet and green and soft, cushioning the footsteps of hikers. The main lodge has roaring fires, a real Aussie pub, a dining room that specializes in Tasmanian delicacies, and a cellar stocked with Australian wines.
All of this nurturing replenishes the body and allows your soul to absorb the nature...and what breathtaking nature it is. There is the ragged summit of Cradle Mountain reflected in the mirrored waters of Lake Dove...though its peak can just as easily be snow-capped and the lake disturbed by crashing waves. A walk borders Lake Dove and ends at the Ballroom Forest where the floor is carpeted in moss and the ceiling etched with the green foliage of the tree canopy. Another hike pushes past the soft rushing water of Crater Falls then on to the beech-tree fringed shores of Crater Lake, with a further scramble up a rocky incline to Marion's Lookout.
I love all the walks at Cradle, and I adore the wildlife. Up by Waldheim Chalet, a backpackers hut where many walks begin, Bennetts Wallabies with heart-melting brown eyes and angora-soft fur forage in the meadow. In the evening, sturdy wombats trundle about like fuzzy Volkswagens on a mission. Closer to the lodge are several shorter walks, my favorite is the Enchanted Trail that borders the swollen waters of Pencil Pine River. Twisted tree trunks hide the dens of platypus, and shy little Tasmanian Pademelons stand in tree thickets, their ears twitching and their thick fur glistening with rain drops.
In the evening, as guests finish a dinner that more than makes up for the calories burned off while hiking, nocturnal possums gather for the beginning of their "day". Tasmanian Devils, spitting, howling, biting bundles of black fur, rip into hunks of meat left out by the lodge, they are the scavengers of the natural world. A little later, the Spotted Quolls come out. Slender, quick and alert, they dash from spot to spot, stopping sometimes to sniff the air with quivering pink noses, then streaking away like over-revved wind-up toys. The Cradle Mountain corner of Tasmania is eternal, majestic and serene, always easing me into that tranquility only nature can bestow.
One of the other wonders of the natural world is the Great Barrier Reef, actually a necklace of reefs off the coast of Queensland stretching for over 2,000 km. There are two ways to see it, by boat, or by staying on one of its coral cay islands. Heron Island, a tiny jewel that combines both resort and national park, is hard to surpass. Here again, the nature-nurture lover is catered to.
One of the most breathtaking hours of my life was a helicopter ride out to Heron Island from the coastal town of Gladstone. I flew over the emerald coral cays fringed with ivory sands and surrounded by water so crystal blue it broke my heart. When I want to torment myself, I think of Heron Island. Soft, warm winds lift the branches of cassurina trees and sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. A few months later hatchlings emerge on moon-lit nights like platoons of tiny soldiers marching back to sea. Thousands of White-capped Noddies converge to build nests and tend to babies, nature revealing its harsh edge when chicks fall to the ground for a slow, lonely death. Eastern Reef Egrets with lacy feathers feed by the shore, Sacred Kingfishers live by the forest's edge, Pied Oystercatchers goose-step down the beach peeping loudly at the wind. And below the water, there is so much more.
Diving on the reef can be unpredictable, and I have certainly been on many dives when the visibility was poor and the waters rough. No place I have ever been had a better set-up for divers than Heron Island. They are friendly and efficient, picking out the best sites depending on conditions, and whisking divers out there twice a day. The weather is up to Mother Nature, but the reef has never let me down. Parrotfish with jeweled scales of pink and aquamarine swim past tiny yellow boxfish propelling themselves on gossamer fins. Anemonefish, one species more beautiful than the other, cavort in the safety of pink-tipped anemones. Moray eels, with skin softer than velvet, breath with gaping mouths from their rocky retreats. Batfish, with flashing silver bodies, follow divers around like curious attendants. Soft corals and hard corals extend waving polyps to feed on passing microorganisms. It is kaleidoscopic, mesmerizing, and unforgettable.
And just like Cradle Mountain Lodge, Heron Island Resort knows that enjoying nature is hard work, people need to replenish their energy. The accommodation ranges from comfortable bunk cabins with shared bathrooms to tropical suites overlooking the ocean. All meals are in the main dining room and they are delicious, especially the weekly buffet groaning with platters of seafood. Other daytime activities include fishing, glass-bottom boat rides, and a delightful trip out to Wilson Island where adult guests can spend a few nights in a safari tent with all meals catered for. Beware of Heron Island, its sea breeze will whisper its way into your heart.
Though Australia has other destinations for the nature lover, a visitor would not go home disappointed if they only visited the three I've decided to focus on. The last resort run by P&O is near Mossman Gorge National Park in the wet tropics of Far North Queensland, and it is as exotic as it sounds. Silky Oaks Lodge, named for the trees that envelope it, has one of the most beautiful locations imaginable. Tucked into a verdant rainforest and perched above a rushing mountain river, Silky Oaks is the most luxurious, and expensive, of the three nature retreats mentioned. The accommodation consists of individual chalets tucked in amongst the lush landscaping. The main lodge is spectacular, with the dining room cantilevered out into the trees above the river, and entirely open to make you feel you are living in the rainforest.
My visit to Silky Oaks left me wondering what I was going to do, at Cradle Mountain I walked, at Heron Island I dived, it wasn't immediately apparent what I could do here besides lounge by the pool and eat...not a bad idea actually. However, I soon found plenty to occupy me. A hike up the river to Fig Tree Rapids was a perfect spot for a picnic. Rushing water exploded over and around huge boulders, flocks of Sulphur-crested Cockatoos screeched from the tops of trees, and a Forest Kingfisher gazed down quietly from a branch. Further down the river path, two Fig Tree Parrots dangled like animated Christmas decorations from a flowering tree, nearby a male Sunbird with sapphire breast feathers alighted on a rock. That night, while devouring a fantastically delicious and expensive meal, I saw a movement in the trees just beyond my table. A rare Striped Possum, clad in a white and black fur coat, scampered up a tree and vanished into the canopy. In the distance an owl hooted and stars winked brightly through the branches. I was enraptured.
I could have slept in the next morning, but instead I struggled out of bed for Chris Dahlberg's Morning River Cruise up to the Daintree River, he picks guests up before dawn and it is worth the early departure. Esturine Crocodiles, deserving of their deadly reputation, snoozed on the banks of the river. Spectacled Flying Foxes, a charming species of fruitbat, hung from towering trees above the gently moving river. Wampoo Pigeons, Night Herons, Jabirus, Rainbow Lorikeets, Magpie Geese, the list filled my fellow birdwatchers and I with delight. The occasional small bolt of cobalt lightning careened through the air: a Ulysses Butterfly, almost too beautiful to be true.
There were several full day adventures from the lodge. I loved the high speed catamaran trip to the outer Great Barrier Reef (well worthwhile even if you've been to Heron Island) to see the northern section of the reef. Another destination is to Cape Tribulation, deserving of its description "where the rainforest meets the reef", a journey into the wilderness region of the wet tropics by 4-wheel drive, and yet another trip further north to Bloomfield Falls. There is also the nearby town of Port Douglas, with one of my favorite spots anywhere, the Rainforest Habitat. This is a massive walk-through aviary with fruitbats that fly right up to you, birds that sing out "G'day", koalas, kangaroos, and more. It is the perfect place for a long morning visit, lunch, and then a drive over to Five Mile Beach for a walk.
There are certainly other lodges in Australia that are just as wonderful as P&O's, but I can't think of any better. For the nature lover who wants to experience Australia in comfort, these three are a wonderful beginning. I wish I were on my way back to them now.

THE END

Prices are in Australian dollars, one Aussie dollar equals about .75 U.S. cents.
-Cradle Mountain Lodge is easily reached by flying into Devonport via Melbourne. Pick up a rental car at the airport, it will come in handy for driving from the Lodge to the park. Early summer through early spring is the best time to visit, and even then the weather can be cold. Take hiking boots and clothes you can layer for changeable conditions. The lodge is casual. Rates are: $153 per night for two, meals are extra. Activities included guided walks, riding, fishing, and abseiling.
-Heron Island is reached from Gladstone via Brisbane. You can either fly out to the island by helicopter ($377 round trip, $228 one way), or take the daily catamaran service ($72.00 each way) which can be very rough, so take a seasick pill an hour before departure. Rates range from $149 to $284 per person including all meals. Summer is best for birdlife and turtles, though every season has its highlights such as migrating humpback whales in winter. Diving conditions are a matter of luck, but the weather is colder and windier in winter. Boat dives are $35, $12 for snorkelers. The resort is casual.
-Silky Oaks is reached via Cairns, they offer a limousine service ($230 round trip), but I would suggest a rental car for more freedom. It is about a two hour drive from Cairns along a narrow coastal road. Be sure to visit nearby Pt. Douglas (especially the Rainforest Habitat). Barrier Reef Cruise is $135, 4-wheel drive safaris range from $110 to $160. The resort is smart-casual, as they say in Australia, rates are $375 per chalet for four people including breakfast for two, other meals extra. Summer is the wet season with plenty of wildlife and rain!
-Two other outstanding lodges in Queensland are O'Reilly's Guesthouse in Lamington National Park, Tel: 011-61-75-544-0644 or Fax: 011-61-75-544-0638 in Australia for a brochure. Oasis Lodge at Carnarvon Gorge National Park, is represented in the States by the same agent as P&O, call for a brochure on 1-800-225-9849.
-Helpful numbers:
-Aussie Help Line for The Australian Vacation Planner brochure and other information on 1-837-296-4900. I recommend calling several tour operators listed in this brochure for package deals.
-Qantas Airlines on 1-800-227-4500 and Ansett Airlines on 1-800-366-1300 for domestic flight information.
-P&O representative in the United States on 1-800-225-9849 for information on Cradle Mountain, Heron Island and Silky Oaks. In Australia call 011-61-2-364-8800 or Fax: 011-61-2-299-2477.